Superglue Nozzle & Cap Generator

Bottle thread measurements (mm)

Measure the bare bottle neck after pulling off the old dispenser. Calipers set to mm; inches × 25.4 = mm.

Thread outer diameter — across the thread ridges mm Thread root diameter — the neck between the ridges mm Thread pitch — ridge-to-ridge spacing Tip: measure across several ridges and divide by the count (3 ridges spanning 6 mm → pitch 2 mm). mm Cap depth — how deep the neck sits in the old cap Depth of the old cap's threaded pocket (or the length of the threaded part of the neck). This is how far the bottle screws into the new nozzle. mm

Fit tuning Thread clearance (diametral, mm) Added to both diameters so the printed socket spins on freely. 0.5 is print-validated at a 0.4 mm nozzle. Print the thread fit test first: too tight → raise by 0.2; sloppy → lower by 0.2. mm

Output File format

Preview

Left click to rotate, right click to pan, scroll to zoom. The cap floats above the nozzle; seated, it closes in a half turn.

Generate to view

Nozzle Cap Thread fit test

Files

Click a file to download.

Printing

Print the thread fit test first (a few minutes of plastic) and spin it onto the bottle. Adjust the thread clearance and regenerate until it threads on snugly, then print the nozzle and cap.
Enable your slicer's elephant-foot compensation — the bottoms are deliberately square for bed adhesion, and thread ridges reach the first layer.
The Ø0.8 mm opening at the tip prints tight with a 0.4 mm nozzle — clear it with a pin, or cut the tip off with scissors. Use a 0.2 mm nozzle if you want the hole to print open.

Usage instructions

Superglue sticks to 3D-printed parts (PLA and PETG especially — the layer lines give it grip). Before first use, coat the inside of the dispenser with a dry lube (e.g. a PTFE spray like WD-40 Specialist Dry Lube) and let the solvent flash off for ~30 minutes. If the nozzle clogs, trim with scissors and re-apply lube.
When you're done gluing: turn the bottle upright, squeeze air in and out a few times while wiping the tip with a cloth to remove any residual glue — then screw the cap back on. A clean, dry tip is what keeps the cap from gluing itself shut.
If you have PP filament and can get it to print without warping, it will be much less clog-prone — superglue barely bonds to PP.